Garage Door Won't Open? 8 Causes and What to Check First
A garage door that won't budge usually traces to one of eight causes — and you can safely rule out several of them yourself in two minutes before calling anyone. A few, though, are a pro's job and genuinely dangerous to touch. Here's how to tell them apart.
1. Dead remote or keypad battery (check this first)
The simplest cause by far. If the wall button works but the remote doesn't, swap the remote's coin battery and re-try. If the keypad is dead, change its battery too. Two-dollar fix, and it's a surprising share of "door won't open" calls.
2. The opener is unplugged or lost power
Check that the opener motor is plugged in and the outlet has power (a tripped GFCI or breaker is common after a storm). Reset the breaker once. If the opener has a backup battery, it may need replacing if it's beeping.
3. Misaligned photo-eye safety sensors
Near the floor on each side of the door are two small "photo-eye" sensors that stop the door from closing on something. If they're bumped out of alignment or their lenses are dirty, the door often won't close (and the opener light may blink). Wipe the lenses and nudge them until both LEDs glow steady. This is a safe, common DIY fix.
4. The door is in "lock" or vacation mode
Many wall consoles have a lock button that disables remotes. If it was pressed by accident, the door ignores the remote. Hold the lock button a few seconds to toggle it off.
5. A broken spring (do NOT DIY this)
If you heard a loud bang — like a firecracker — and now the door won't lift, a torsion or extension spring almost certainly snapped. Springs counterbalance the door's full weight under enormous tension; replacing one without the right tools and training causes serious injuries every year. Leave this to a technician. Don't try to force the door open with the opener either — you can burn out the motor.
6. The door is off its track
If the door is crooked, jammed, or a roller has popped out of the rail, stop using it. Running the opener on an off-track door can bend panels and make the repair far costlier. This is a pro fix.
7. A snapped or frayed cable
The lift cables run alongside the springs and are under similar tension. A broken cable leaves the door hanging unevenly. Like springs, cables are not a safe DIY repair.
8. A worn opener gear or logic board
If the motor hums or runs but the door doesn't move, the plastic drive gear may be stripped, or the logic board may have failed. A technician can tell quickly whether a repair or a new opener is the better value.
Safe to check yourself · leave to a pro
- Safe: remote/keypad batteries, the outlet/breaker, photo-eye alignment, the lock button.
- Pro only: springs, cables, off-track doors, and anything where the door is hanging crooked or under load.
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This guide is general information for educational purposes only — not professional repair or safety advice. Garage door springs and cables are under extreme tension and can cause serious injury; spring, cable, and track work should be left to a trained technician. Prices are general national estimates that vary by region, door, and contractor, and change over time. Confirm specifics with a licensed garage-door professional before acting.